348 Timing Belt Service - Part 10

good morning YouTube all right we are
finally gonna get the cams in and do the
timing today
oh sweet I'm looking forward to this for
a long time because like I know the
concept but I've never actually done
this kind of curious to see how an
expert actually sets the timing
we are continuing on with the 348 major
so as you can see it's coming along
hopefully we'll have a lot of it
buttoned up today and we'll be getting
closer and closer to getting that sucker
back in there and letting it rip so it's
gonna be awesome
okay what is that all right so we are
doing the valve adjustment I asked we
have a shim yep stuff habit measuring
things in thousands because we're here
in America where we don't understand the
fracking metric system so the shims
being metric oh good cigar in
millimeters great but we're measuring in
thousandths so we're gonna go through a
little bit of a process the shims come
in about mm of an inch increments up or
down so this is three point nine zero
millimeters so our options are 3.85 or
three point 95 which is mm up or down
okay so we want to go a little bit
looser on this right because we're gonna
go for ten ten thousandths to nine
thousand square this intake we need
between point zero zero and point zero
one zero right exhaust I don't even have
point zero one two two point zero one
four right and ideally you know they
would all be the same in exactly the
same four in other words a real life no
so one thousandths clearance is fine
really mm is fine but you know we're
gonna open up the 8,000th to ten
thousands because that helps us play
with our cam timing a little bit as well
so we got a three point ninety so now we
need a three eighty five so you pulled
out the existing one right yes it goes
on the top of the lifter here okay so
right there I just pulled out okay so
that tool removes them no this is the
actually this sits down in there and
well that shim goes in the bucket so you
pulled out the entire lifter with oh I
see I see okay yeah so I'll create some
suction between the in the bucket yes
yeah it's not a big deal we've got our
old one here 390 millimeter right 389 so
we'll measure that one
383 okay so we have a little variation
there right but now we know for sure
because this one doesn't the numbers
aren't so easy to read on that one so I
like to check it metric will
double-check our an inch as well
154 so we want this one to be like 150
to 150 one five so pretty close close
zero zero zero five five ten thousands
the oil in the expansion contraction
no there it goes and now we repeat that
a bunch of time nauseam yeah most of
them are really close so we're gonna do
three intakes yeah that one so now you
need to do these two integral your
cylinder that would be cylinder six so
you just hook that thing yeah this
painting is that comes out pretty easy
yeah once you get it hooked then it's
kind of a pain to get these I don't want
to stab myself I've got 40 miles of work
that she's using the intake port yeah
why not it's close of course you know
these things are designed to only get
valve adjustments every 30,000 miles and
in 27 years this cars only accrued
43,000 so the odds of it having
significant valve adjustment where
before its next service in five years
know pretty low yeah in five years me
yeah I you know what I welcome this you
need to have the timing belt service
needed by miles not by time that way
your goal that would be very cool
yeah apparently Josh's math is perfect
Tim's math not so perfect
that's because he's used to doing math
and grams and kilos where it makes sense
so we're all done shimming it so now
they're all within spec yep so now we're
running the wires wherever the hell
they're supposed to go which is uh yeah
I think gonna go pop your covers off
real quick right Josh knows how to
handle his hose and this here is the
hill engineering TDC kit this is you can
purchase from raqami Americas whoa yeah
it has these machined inserts here with
different thread pitches for different
spark plug holes and it's real nice you
got a set screw on a split brass clamp
here they just screws into your spark
plug yep that's badass yep all of this
comes from Rick and me the kits right
over here the dial indicator everything
it's a turnkey kit you don't get the
degree wheel and crank adapter but by
the way did you know all these videos
are sponsored by RicambiAmerica com
that's right go visit ricambiamerica.com
use the NGS10 and get 10% off
your entire order so you can get that
tool but 10% off shameless plug zero
right yeah not zero yeah you want to do
this a couple of times and we're gonna
redo this after we get all the cams in
we set up the degree wheel and
everything right so when you do that
it's actually okay to turn it backwards
a little bit well yeah there's no belts
on it correct yeah ut combs aren't there
yeah yeah you don't want to do it when
you have the cams and the belt on
because you're going in the opposite
direction of the tensioner so the belt
goes slack and your timing offing yeah
yeah you you could at least you know or
the belt could skip a couple of teeth
because it's gone slack so you basically
just walking the crank back and forth
well they see it not move yep yeah so
when we want to actually zero and know
what absolute dead TDC is there's a
couple different ways to do it some
people like to use piston stops I've
never really adopted that technique but
what we will do is when it's all
assembled we'll put the degree wheel on
with the indicator and then I will rock
it you know I'll say right now it's at
zero and it's at zero and I'll rock it a
couple of degrees back and forth until I
get an even amount of motion off zero
here to it you know alright so we go + 5
- 5 it should go exactly the same
distance on your indicator exactly yeah
I should have yeah like let's say one
thousandth of the movement off from zero
in both directions for the same number
of degrees on the degree wheels and then
I know the piston is at true zero
degrees TDC the piston doesn't instantly
stop and then return there is a amount
of climb where it dwells at the TDC
you have to account for that in your
rock on your front shaft to figure out
where actual zero is because you've got
that right right and when you're trying
to set camshaft timing plus or minus one
degree nose yeah it's pretty important
factor learning shit josh is getting our
education on
I got more parts yeah right what are
these we've got to assemble the camp
seal housings when we put the camshafts
in so we start here with the camshaft
radial seal one six three nine eight
seven nice
these are pressed into the Frog yep and
then after that we'll pull out the
o-rings and put the o-rings around the
housing so we can put them in the
cylinder heads so you can so we got some
more of the gray goop yep again you know
the seals are designed to be sealed in
the housing but this kind of helps to
work as a lubricant when installing the
seal so we don't rip the face up and
then it will help glue it in there on
top of that always helps you use
lubricant when you're sticking the
rubber in the hole hey yes let's keep
this g-rated ten G's could also put in
the vise and actually press it in and
this is how you work on a Ferrari I'm
kind of shocked at how much for using
hammers on this thing most people are
yeah Aaron's also scared these things oh
my god we're just beating the snot out
of it you know just a title for
everything these moments to be delicate
and precise and true tap tap tap-a-roo
just go home that's your home are you
too good for your home yeah I just
realized that probably made the cut
everyone has sex dreams by Adam
I mean want to his wife I didn't touch
that one she said it's not that's not
what she says Rihanna yes so this this
is part of the assembly from hill
engineering which is available from
ricambi america for iron our of the
transmission mount bushing in 360 and
oh that's the trans thing yes but it is
also very nice and thick and heavy duty
steel and just the right size for
beating cams seals in sometimes with the
RTV it helps it go in but it can with
the tension it can also help it kind of
slide out of the housing as well so we
beat it yeah clean it all up get some of
the excess our TV off and then begin
yeah double check and make sure it's
fully seated almost nine yeah it's the
cams when I spin at 4500 that's still
faster shit though not as fast as 9,000
all right these are the o-rings for the
cam seals part number one one seven two
seven five mm thick be filled rings yes
brown turd
Boop there you go these are easy to
install dynamic but on these were like
we were talking about quite a while ago
was making sure when you install the cam
covers that you don't pinch him to cut
them like the old house where and the
valve cover gaskets are part number one
five zero zero seven eight and one five
zero zero eight four careful I don't
write here so that's one way to do it
another way to do it is just take
scissors and snip these four pieces and
then you can lay them on one by one now
you can see where where it aligns so
you're gonna want to snip the ends here
so that way it clears the can see Eliza
is as you can see right now we can't
install that but you do want these gases
that come all the way up to bed yeah
like that Jeff just come from the bottom
up like this straight up as close as you
can there sure
so you're just gonna be if actually if I
were you I would put something on
and the other one it's very important to
know this temp don't rack it up mm-hmm
solid advice right there what you want
to do is you got your that's gonna be
about TDC there so then we'll roll the
cam seal housing grab a flashlight and
shine it down in there and make sure
that the the notch there is pretty
aligned with yeah it's pretty spot on
there that'll work
remember the steel housings do have
notches in them that align with notches
there's nerves on the camera yeah on
valve covers so if we wanted to be smart
theoretically well yeah if that aligns
with that it should put no put the drain
there's that the camera chefs all have a
part number machine into him but they
also have a letter a in a letter S aid
for aspiration for intake and s for
scavengers creaky Oh for exhaust so if
you kind of forget to pay attention you
know these two camshafts here look
pretty identical you know right so if
you forget you can look at the part
number and determine what the hay and
the s I have found sometimes the part
numbers on here match what's in the
current parts catalog so that will also
tell you which ones you know which but
I've found that quite often that part
numbers on the cans don't match what's
in the current parts catalogs so they're
not very helpful for you know I was
smart enough to keep them in order I
know it was either this or Bob's
greasing it up grease lunch lady Doris
oh yeah got any grease yes yes we do bun
grease me up woman okey-dokey the cam
lobe isn't as important right now so
it's more important right now to drink
yeah wet all the journals so that way
when you put your caps on I've already
got some oil in there and so now we're
putting on the planter and there you go
mmm it's lots of nuts yeah putting on
washers and knits see that number right
there see it's an upside-down 12 so we
matched that same orientation to our
bearing we just sat down there so you
can see on the bearing rise to 12 there
we go
three years later just like when we were
taking out we are shoving literally a
torn-up business card wedging that on
the bearing just to kind of lock the cam
blip oh yeah noise cheers Tim watch your
I'm gonna rotate it here so that way our
hash marks are aligned on our caps yep
and start cranking it down just like
when we're disassembling the last few
cats we took off we're surrounding the
cam lobe with the most tension on it so
pretty much I would start here and then
come down here and really this very
front one would be the last yeah
especially because you've got your Kim
your your business card on that one
Catalonian thank you well no it's good
to start with that one
yep no don't worry about that one go
look you want to take the whole cap down
evenly so you get that nut down a thread
or so more than the other that's good
let's get this one this one's real loose
we want to do a front one oh cool Kim's
nice and snug yep go ahead and get them
all snug down I'll tidy wait these 80
inch bags will come back and torque them
down we're done yeah yeah we'll pull out
the book and double-check the exact
torque spec and then go over all of it
with the torque wrench
once they're all once they're all set we
get the cam belt on so we can take the
business card so we'll torque it off
there you go what marks are you looking
up this machine mark on the camshaft and
the cap these are the two you'll wanna
focus on the most you can get the most
load there see like that when you just
loaded it up like that I felt it I'm
sure I don't
yeah rock the camp so usually when I do
when I'm putting my business cards in
I'll find the cap like you kind of need
here you know that's gonna have all the
load on it because that's the one I'm
gonna want to tighten the most first and
that's the one I'll put them in this
corner so Adam was asking at what point
we want to start taking the business
cards out from under the cam caps to let
them loose and that's going to be one of
the last things we do because in once we
get all the cams locked here at TDC we
want to work on getting the cam belt on
and because of how many pulleys there
are between the cam shafts the tensioner
of the idler the drive gear and the
water pump it's not possible to stretch
the belt and move it around everything
particularly we have a fence here on the
front of the drive pulley and we have
one fence each on the front of one cam
gear on each Bank
there's no way to stretch the belt up
and around so if you try to work the
belt where you can and then slide it
over these teeth here these Kym gears
here with no fence on the teeth the
teeth are so sharp you will scrape the
teeth of the belt while you're putting
it on right and that's obviously
accelerating the damage of the belt and
the possibility is that having you know
a failure later on what we will do is
once all four cam shafts are locked down
at TDC
we double check on our crank here is at
TDC we will pull the bolts out and the
two cam gears with the front fences will
at least pull these two off and get the
belt all wrapped around everything and
set it on these two pulleys and then
rock the pulleys back up on to the
camshafts and then slide the bolts on
and that way everything kind of is
settled in and then we can put the
locking pins back in for the cam gears
and now everything's all keyed and
together we'll release the bolt that
pinches the
tensioners so now there's tension on the
cam belt and then we can release the the
caps with the business cards and let the
cam settle into their natural position
which the belt and the tensioner will
you know kind of dictate got it good
there'll be a quiz on it later this is
why it's important to do the process the
way with the way we are which is you
gently set them in and now we will take
the time to roll them up here which you
the position looks aligned right here
and so if you see this pair of lobes is
now opening the valves on this cylinder
quite a bit but we have relieved the
tension on the lobes from these valves
so had you tighten the camshaft all the
way down it is possible that you would
have pushed these intake valves into the
piston and caused contact yeah ain't
nobody got time for that
before you go any more back there okay
lulubelle a shiny tiny belt is part
number 1 3 2 8 4 3 yeah that's why you
have to replace it
alright so pulling the the ones with the
fence is off yeah we're gonna start with
this side and see if it feels like
cooperating today
now when anytime anybody else I've ever
rebuilt a fried motor I can say well I
mm-hmm I was like Richard the other day
yeah I got a third one right you
literally using a crescent wrench on the
lobe oh the croissant is French along
with the Malay I like croissants they're
light and fluffy and buttery tasty
hariya so what we did there right is
everything's all TDC but it's all kind
of relative right yeah well and you have
variables you know the tension and slack
in the belt you know there's a lot of
different things going on so even though
we have at TDC there was too much slack
in this side of the cam belt assembly
once everything was a routed for the to
fit here on the gears so that's where
it's talking about it's really easy to
damage the belt when you're trying to
assemble it yeah if you're just trying
to cram it on this was not quite so you
torqued it so pulling this right and put
tension on yes so basically what I did
was yeah yeah with it because with these
two guys you know normally I'd use black
sheet metal clips or or small C clamps
something like that to make sure that
the belt stays on the cam gears where I
need it to be since this had too much
slack it was pulling away from here
so come in and just real gently with the
crescent wrench on the cam lobe and I
rolled this cam up so that way I took
away all of the tension so between the
drive gear the idler and the belt now
the you know it's nice and tight so I
gave me a bunch of slack then of course
you got to come over here or roll this
side snuggle a little bit to take the
tension out of here because you know we
had a you know 3/4 of an inch of
deflection now obviously that's lengthen
my span of belt between these two
pulleys this guy slides right on him
that's impressive
so after all that now we look and see
where our hole lines up here for a cam
gear and our pulley so there's only a
few holes in the cam but we have a whole
series of holes here so you're able to
see you know their lines in certain ones
only one yeah only one hole aligns at a
because even though there's a different
number of holes the spacing between the
holes on the cam is different than the
spacing on the holes of the gear we can
wind our cam bolt back in and we can
pull all of the caps loose with the
business parts
and let the cams all go into where they
want to go first I want to go ahead and
pull the tensioner loose you just take
the screws out see that
so now by loosening that it just pulled
itself in a little bit
everything should stay so now go ahead
through your cam caps and one by one
pull all your business cards out so
we're pulling out our business cards but
the cams are free to move again
Tim's setting the cam torque specs to 80
inch pounds right yeah 88 pounds not
much not much yeah I would have thought
of it more but I guess not
so we're basically gonna do a rotation
see where this has maximum deflection
and then tighten it down at the maximum
torque and that's how you set the torque
ever set the tension on it this is
called the 348 workout go darkus full
extension right there up gold back here
so we got the maximum extension on it
and we tighten that bitch down
right about there
then the cam timing is they want 20
thousands of an inch clearance on the
lifter for where we set the dial
indicator and then we open it enough
basically 20 thousands is how the book
spec is set
you've got your notes on what your valve
adjustment is right so now what we want
to do is so we know that we've got 14
thousandths of clearance on the exhaust
side so we can just pretend that there's
another six thousandths when we're doing
our rotation with our dial indicator
because we want 40,000 space right so
instead of just open it 20,000th we can
open it 26,000 since say it's 40,000 you
have the dial indicator touching the
lifter well so you turned it until it
just barely moved off zero no no cam
starting to open up the valve yeah
15:16 call that 16-degree is open
sixteen before top dead center
7:59 what I'm doing right now is the
other way to cheat not having to
actually use the valve adjustment spec
and all of that to time it exactly the
way they say to do it the other way you
can do it is what's called a camshaft
centerline calculation so you take the
degrees opening and close add them
together at 180 degrees divided by two
and then you subtract the in this case
on the intake the opening and that gives
you your degree centerline at 120 one
point five by doing that I can take what
I just measured which is the moment of
opening closing and calculate the
centerline that I can take the cam
timing spec out of the book oh and find
the difference from centerline uh-huh I
see yeah the centerline will calculate
the same even though the opening and
closing events measured differently this
is what I measured mm-hmm this is what
the book says so we're gonna do 14 plus
53 goes 67 plus 180 is 247 divided by 2
is 120 3 point 5 minus 14 degrees is a
centerline of 109.5 so we're way off
yeah all right round two let's try this
again we have the new-and-improved dial
indicator with special machine services
bye Josh
all right sir wait until it hits 31
thousands of an inch and then you mark
it so it should go down to 69 right
because it goes that way
69 dude 69 indeed yes good that's six
before so we are off quite a bit towards
that supposed to be
14:26 and 69 a little tiny bit more
there that's 60 call that 60 so that
actually looks pretty good
cuz fourteen and fifty three and six and
sixty all right said least the math
checks out the same so our math is good
the position is bad right yeah the cam
timing for the intake is way off and so
this proves the point on the accuracy of
almost 10 degrees off yeah
your so this thing will have huge bore
performance well yeah
being that far off yeah yeah you shipped
it like this you'd be way down on power
so how do we adjust these sons of
so mmm how we pull out the ratchet so
now we want to pop this bolt completely
out right uh-huh
so we want it to hit a lot sooner right
right now it's done some teams only
hitting 6 degrees before TDC when we
want it 14 degrees advancing it would be
in the direction of rotation what we're
going to do you want to shine your light
you want to look at your holes and I'm
guessing we're gonna want to go at least
two holes up there about two degrees per
so we can go there to there that's one
what's that one yeah so there okay now
what I want you to do gently keep a
little bit just a little bit of tension
on that pin so that way when I align it
the pin drops in okay okay and then
you're gonna turn the camp
again I'm not saying that this is the
best way to do it black works every oak
goes in okay
holy shit and now we check it again huh
yep all right now I see how this house
run your bolt back in and don't need
that jumping out okay this is cool now I
understand it yeah we wanted to go back
to 70 or 69 yeah we'll do it that way
I should be just about balls on right
14 yeah it's pretty much oh wow 14 14
alright let's see if it comes back to 53
I'm gonna call that 14 that wasn't quite
as precise as it should be but we're
just trying to get in the ballpark right
yeah so it goes to 26 that's your last
all right go to 17 you're good and that
is 54 54 Wow one degree yep
that's as close as we're gonna get
that's pretty badass so it's definitely
way more than two degrees per hole more
like four yeah closer to four degrees
per hole yep okay ha
how cool success one down so check this
out now we will bring it all back here
to TDC right there should be about TDC
now look at that so
we're dead on so really what that's
saying is the difference between what we
measured as TDC how we set the cams up
the cams must have all rocked you know
backwards a bit when we tensioned it and
set everything because look at that one
that's way off now so bring up the
obviously advance I want you to yeah
that one's have to go forward a couple
holes just like that one
they've come over this side that one now
see this is where it gets interesting
this one's off quite a lot as well yeah
but this one's just barely off yeah that
might be one whole verses to correct
yeah so we know we need to move probably
two holes on the on the intake one hole
in the exhaust or same way
move them getting pinned and then then
double check them because you went this
way on that ones they're gonna go that
way go ahead and pull it okay
okay Jim yes yet misaligned it's pretty
dang close there it is
pretty close there we go
ready yep yeah okay yep okay so there's
an actual notch in the washer that helps
it clear that pin that's kind of
important to know so you gotta line the
washer to the pin okay all right we got
the time he initially set up so it's
close not quite perfected yet we're
gonna perfect it tomorrow so we'll get
them dialed in we're gonna get the
exhaust advanced just a little bit so
we're gonna set it to the timing specs
for a countless 348 so we'll get that
set up correctly gained a little bit of
extra horsepower by doing that so of
course we're gonna be removing the cats
and all that stuff too so you don't
wanna stay tuned for that but you guys
know the drill
go to RIcambi America calm go use the
code NGS10 go buy some parts from them
if you got a Ferrari or Maserati and
subscribe like and share it we're gonna
be doing a lot of car stuff we're gonna
continue working us 348 should have
hopefully buttoned up quickly so that's
the plan alright guys we'll see you soon
it's gonna be sweet