348 Timing Belt Service - Part 7

good morning YouTube so it's been three
weeks I know it's only been like a day
or two for you guys but it's been three
weeks because I went on vacation and
we're back at 3:48 all this stuff if you
guys didn't know but sent to us by Ricambi
and Ricambi totally hooked him
up and even sponsoring all this so you
guys need to go check out for Ricambi America
calm and use the code NGS10
you get 10% off it's good stuff they've
been pretty badass
we're gonna start putting back together
the 348 so we got all torn apart was it
too bad taking apart that comes the
harder part it's gonna suck but it's
gonna be good hope you guys enjoy this
I wasn't a total loss of three weeks so
we got it nice and fucked up everywhere
yes so during my three weeks absence Tim
was busy and as you can see I don't know
if you remember but the motor was much
less clean there was a bunch of plastic
crap that had like baked on to the the
headers right there everything was
covered in grease grease and dirt and
grime and now it's nice and beautiful
and clean I mean look at this looks
and we have all the parts oh and check
this out he got the valve covers totally
repainted look how beautiful those look
that's amazing those looks so those look
brand-new all right what do we got first
um I guess I got rid of the parts store
because part of putting that front cover
back on is the tensioner don't so I
don't want take that all right well
nothing like starting off a project by
writing as a part store right all right
so we're gonna start rebuilding with the
apparently there's a bearing that goes
right in there oh really this one's
important yeah because some of these the
one here on the main drive gear yeah the
early models were roller bearings and
then they Ferrari replaced it with a
roller bearing of substandard quality so
he'll engineering makes really good one
oh good so we can have a he'll
engineering part yeah okay and that's
what is this part let me see this isn't
it I have to find it okay let's find the
right part so this is the bearing that
goes in that cup what part numbers is it
is it's a superseded part number and
that's the new part number there okay
one seven one one seven seven but this
bearing is the one that's the major
catch this was originally an SKF bearing
Ferrari sold their rights for parts
production for the older cars SKF barian
got replaced with a no-name who knows
what bearing within a couple hours of
running the engine they already puke the
grease out the front so fortunately
he'll engineering took the time to work
with NT
to reproduce the bearing in a even
higher specification so this is the one
that causes a lot of problems that will
allow the timing belt drive pulley to
walk around where's that one go it goes
this goes on the outside of the cover
yep okay so the in so this one's back
here and yep no one's on the outside ok
so there's basically holding the shaft
from the back yep so no hampering inside
and then you've got this conical spacer
spring-loaded washer and you've got the
o-ring here because you know the engine
is back here so you got oil moving
around so they keep oil from going
through the bearing out the front of the
cover you press it into an o-ring and
you just use this conical spacer between
two circlips
to help keep tension on the bearing so
that way you can't walk in the housing
you know normally you would have a real
positive seat real tight perhaps but the
way this parts me you just have certain
clips so here is a typical bearing
grease seal its purpose is to keep the
grease that's in the ball bearing inside
the ball bearing that's its only real
purpose it's not designed to fight
against engine oil or anything else yeah
it helps keep dust and debris from
getting in but when you flip the bearing
over it's probably not as obvious to you
guys but to me this is a very obvious
very typical radial lip seal like your
front crankshaft seal or the seals we
put in for the cam shafts which is
designed specifically for keeping oil on
the backside of the seal
you know normally like here and here
when you're looking at those seals you
know it's a flat face here you can see
we're looking at the backside of it
because the engine oil is going to come
up to the bearing this way so it's very
important to make sure that this bearing
is installed in the correct direction so
that well side pivot flat side grease
correct interesting yeah if you put it
this way you're allowing the opportunity
for the engine oil to come through the
grease seal wipe out the grease and then
come out the front of the bearing you
know cause we're gonna put the two
bearings in the shaft that the bearings
press on to into the freezer for a
couple hours or so and let them chill
they all kind of compress a little yeah
yeah they'll contract hopefully just
enough so that way we put a little bit
of heat on to the front cover and they
should slip fit together to happen well
yeah yeah all all bearings have in what
we're doing here like you know these
roller bearings they all have a press
fit both on the outside and on the
inside by half a thousand and a half of
an inch you can just beat them together
on the on the bench but it's a pretty
unpleasant process so if you can use a
little bit of a freezer and a little bit
of temperature to change the sizing of
the components they slip together real
and there's nothing feels like a a
nicely sized bearing just drop on the
chef oh but they heat transfers between
the two parts so quickly the moment this
thing touches the temperatures between
the two parts have equalized enough that
it's immediately locked in the place
there is no oh shoot I want to pull it
back off it just goes in that's a it's
instantly on there and now you'll have
to you know use tools to pull it apart
or since the front crank seal part
number 13364 in there that was hard
I'm qualified to do that these are
expert fingers here just got some gray
RTV gray RTV yeah so the the rubber
seals are designed be soft enough sand
and bond the way I was taught and I
still like to use it is I'll put just a
tiny coat of the gray sealant and that
helps lubricate the seal when you push
it in so you don't scar it up yeah and
it will help take up any additional
inconsistencies and make sure it stays
bonded in that ax front cover reducing
any likelihood of leaks to me this whole
process is all about managing the
probability of leaks as much as make it
last for another five years before it
leaks again I'd say yeah absolutely my
hope is that in five years you'll look
at it and wonder to yourself if it's
really worth doing another engine l
service or not because it's not leaking
and it's run good you're doing it just
because you know that's the thing to do
and not because the engine has this
problem that problem right like right
now you know we're curing twenty some
odd years worth of deferred maintenance
hopefully in another five and ten years
it's like well we shouldn't have to do
quite this degree evidence it out next
time should just be built out seal
yourself some seals no oil pan know very
basic service next time good technique
there is a such thing as too much but
the nice thing is in this application is
the way we're going to apply it it's
gonna push all the too much up to the
face and then we can wipe it off so okay
it's not that big of a deal
damn that required more force than I
Wow go yeah I really saw you at the end
there now there's a nice silicon colored
mess all over the front of it so we'll
just take a little break clean on a rag
and wipe it off it's the whole unit yeah
already has still shafted everything
ah bitchin well you can see it's a
twenty different design yeah a lot
sturdier right through here the way
pillow has done is they've made a
completely different casing to fit again
in NTN bearing as opposed to an ER you
know factory lab scale the bearing yes
yes very you can see the bearing is way
on the outside
yep much heavier duty bearing it Wow and
then this whole cast piece back here
seen now that's way better yep
wow that's impressive so this is a he'll
part what was the part number came as
the bolt tensioners came together PT
it's part of the oh it's part of the kit
yep same with the other tensioner
bearing to him those are beefy each
other they're gonna laugh just the size
of the bearing that bearing was the size
of it the inner race yeah the inner race
on this ones here yeah outer race is as
big as the inner race I'm Alan
so take way more of a beating the
manifold for all the coolant sensors and
everything yep and it was severely
corroded around all the fittings we're
replacing those temperature sensors
basically this is just an outlet pipe
here one of our union for one oh my god
temperature sensors one two five seven
six nine wow that thing is nasty
we put heat on this to make sure I came
out without breaking off in the manifold
so it's a little extra done up yep
that's the small one on this side and
the big one on that side is 104 six to
eight and again no oh yeah well that's
to happen this is the actual sensing
element here whereas this is just your
mounting case yeah it goes into the
water jacket but the way we melted it
we're able to just pull the actual
sensing element right out which it's
just kind of entertaining the look at
it's kind of cool
throw a little RTV on the threads now
are these things that should be replaced
on like a normal major or these things
that you could probably let go for like
every two or three majors these parts
here original parts that are 25 years
old so they'll probably be fine for
another 20-some odd years okay that is a
stainless instead of steel fitting so
you may never need it forever yeah Tim
had mentioned having some cooling
temperature reading concerns and high
idle and some things like that and these
temperature sensors not look real good
it seemed wise to go ahead and replace
them you know we didn't do any pretty
testing before so I don't know for
certain how good or bad the sensors were
right but we're here and they didn't
look good so yeah yeah and this is like
negligible costs given the total yeah it
is and this is the true nature of
preventative maintenance
even if these sensors are good they're
25 years old they're going to fail
sooner than later they're closer to the
end of their lifespan than the beginning
to me yeah the engines here it's easy
access to do it now so that way in six
months you don't have a sensor failure
on a motor you just had out of the car I
had that happen to me once many years
ago on a 355 they're notorious for
having failures with a fan switch in the
right-hand radiator and did an engine
out service for this customer and you
know did very basic service like many
people wish for
and the gentleman picked up the car
drove straight to Manhattan and had the
fan switch fail while he was stuck in
traffic in Manhattan I couldn't get out
of the way I couldn't do anything and he
ended up roasting both of the cylinder
head gasps Oh quite badly so three weeks
later I had the car back and the motor
is out to replace the head gasket in a
radiator fan switch so to me that's one
of those
yeah first $10 part or whatever even
$100 doesn't go here right yeah it's got
a little crush washer on it all right
grease it up lunch lady Doris oh yeah
got any grease yes yes we do not greasy
up woman okey-dokey
and it stick it in and like many other
important things in life it's easy to
figure out which hole each one of those
belongs in cuz they technically only fit
in one hole properly
gaskets for the water housing new spiffy
this is another on those things where I
was taught a very particular way to do
silicone on gaskets okay people tend to
overuse silicone and as I was taught
whatever squishes out squishes in oh
put this right here
nope not yet so that one's got a little
bit too much on it see so I really I
don't like to just smear it and slam it
on there take in tak tak tak tak tak tak
that way it has a very nice even coat I
also don't like to apply silicone with
bare hands because you have oils dirt
whatever on your hands and that can be a
contaminant for the silicone so I prefer
to use a nitrile gloves so that way I
don't get it all over myself and
everything I'm working on and beat I
make sure that the silicone States
it's got three pieces yeah and a ring
nut and a washer yeah oh yeah
those gaskets our part number one and
three to nine eight one standard torque
for a eight millimeter stud with thread
pitch 1.25 millimeters 18 to 22
foot-pounds with a paper gasket like
this I would just do it at 18
foot-pounds if you over torque it you
can just smell it yeah exactly
no smash in this case no smash is bad
smash is bad smash is not good all right
so we're doing 18 foot-pounds okay it's
important to get a good accurate torque
one sweeping motion yeah I was just kind
of storing them all up if you got enough
sweet okay go ahead and come close to
upsetting yet there you go so throwing a
little bit of oil in there before
throwing the bearing in yeah and I'm
gonna try to real gently because we
don't want to cook our new seal or the
o-ring in here so I real gently that
just put a little bit of heat on it
got a frozen bearing we want to chuckles
up in the Vice here let's use it as a
press ready yep it's off a little bit no
use off Oh careful tottenham okay go oh
yeah keep going
yep yeah all right easy easy
let off okay go ahead
Holloway mm-hmm you got should feel it
seat uh yep keep going
kissed oh yeah yes nice oh oh so nice oh
what oh shit yeah pinched it yep took
out the o-ring pour the low ring gave
its life trying parts Ryan and the Jag
alright we have to run to Ferrari have
Austin to go get a new o-ring thankfully
to have it
round two for the bearing this time whoo
oh I think it's right on the o-ring
already check the other side where you
pinched oh yeah you're right you're
right get a little bit more to go you
can overly cautious now that drove it
home oh right on it right on it sweet oh
our side looks like it's trying to come
out yeah that one corner looked like it
really good
we have successful whoo jackpot sir
clips I kind of lost track of but now
that I work on vintage you know 50 year
old cars on a routine basis now is that
fresh dealership cars has taught me how
valuable heat things are when doing this
type of work because sometimes it's the
only way to get parts together apart
without destroying irreplaceable
components well there I don't see any
green sticking out so we're gonna assume
that that's an acceptable installation
shaft wave it doesn't change it we go on
first yeah okay yeah you're probably
right it's really tight good call sorry
just look at the tolerances I'm like
there's no way
I can see the flange there you go
look real carefully you can see the dark
flange from the gear hitting the machine
face of the bearing so we got a good
seat there now nice the lube the frozen
look at that nice and tight so smooth
yeah oh my god finally got a good muscle
memory in two months when I put that one
together I can start all over again
yeah me too cheese look at that I'm so
good-looking question through the
miracle of science and muscle so the way
the way to assemble it in that fashion
is I laid this chain under this chain
and then fed the sprocket in through the
top and gently worked the chains on to
each set of teeth wiggling it around
gently getting it in through the crank
seal as well there's just enough play
there you can actually go through yeah
if you're gentle with it it really
nicely just pops right through all right
nice as evidenced by the magnet the lip
on the front of crank seal is not rolled
outward yeah that we already put in
there and glued in yeah thankfully genes
back on with the tensioner so that's
what 20-something years or what 30 years
27 years will do to that pretty gnarly
compared to the brand-new one
so this is the gasket that goes on the
front of the motor is part number one
five zero zero seven seven which
actually looks kind of pretty so we got
to be the same thing with the RTV on
this one don't touch it don't touch it
why isn't it spraying out the insert in
here has a whole set of stepped right
pieces see that yep and there's layers
it no there's a pin here so there's a
point of equilibrium here so if I were
to just push it in it will want to
release it
so it will stay in position right here
and then as soon as we attach everything
and the chain depresses it it's gonna
kick and try to run down the ratchet
basically and self tension itself so if
you push it right now it'll okay it'll
shoot a part time for some gasket action
where's the other end of the chain go on
yeah doesn't good gear that me see when
I was in there okay nevermind well we've
just been having fun with chains so got
a double check the other one that's
irritating is getting the chains around
the guides and the tension airs all
right so we're in the right hand guide
run the tensioner pad that's it and I
know the tensioner pad is released cuz I
actually had to manipulate it thank you
so you're not gonna have to turn it
yeah Shane on the bottom okay it looks
like we're now up at the bearing
here then there like that so yeah it
goes from the hollow to solid molten
stiff congratulations team oh you just
got your first major component
reinstalled on your 348 you did nope I
just stood here and made fun of you and

drink beer all day I didn't do nothing I
had up on the AC compressor back bracket
18 foot bones it's got a release the
tensioner okay go in that clock nice
right yeah that ain't working there we
that sounded good no no - there we go
horse the moment I'm not feeling yeah I
love it such as life oh yes nice have
you not learned working with me yet yeah
I know he looks over to make sure and
then after you're done you're gonna take
a clean finger and you're gonna press it
hard like this you're gonna wipe the
entire edge because when you compress it
right it's gonna squish so you want to
clean some away from the edge so when it
rolls inward it's not trying to roll all
the way inward it's all about the
schmear the schmear
all right Tim's going under for the old
pan down going down watch yourself I can
probably hold this a little no it's not
quite over
let's corner this car there you go
there's a washer after cuz it's gonna be
hard to uh run the washer you can take
it back off in the washer after you get
a couple under I'll run them all out
there's a lot of nuts down there
wrenching away
all right that's we're wrapping up for
today front cover on get the oil pan on
so tomorrow we're gonna kind of get the
rest of the front of the stuff on get it
basically ready for the cam belts and
timing and stuff but probably what
actually gets a timing until the next
time I work at it but continue on
tomorrow morning