348 Timing Belt Service - Part 11

all right good morning YouTube we're
back at 3:48 Tim's scraping away the
head gasket and Josh is replacing valves
which was an unexpected twist in this
journey I chalk it up to fatigue I think
it was mostly fatigue fatigue hunger you
guys have been turning away on it for
like seven plus hours that one can was
not cooperating and I think we ended up
advancing it when we were supposed to
retard it it was like off by like 8 or 9
degrees and we wanted to make it eight
or nine degrees retarded and instead
we'd advanced at eight or nine degrees
or maybe even 10 and so I was probably
like 20 degrees off we spun it Josh goes
hey that was a lot of resistance which
we all said oh crap now we have to do
the valves
having fun scrape it away Tim scraping
away I thought we were past this yeah
you thought your did you thought you're
done alright we have the old and the new
bit different funny looks a little
thicker yeah that's probably a good
thing right
yeah it makes it less expensive this is
better for flow this will cut your flow
down a little bit oh yeah it looks a
little taller huh interesting
yep that doesn't look like it's a lot of
fun I thought I was done with this shit
looks like you're done scraping gaskets
now man there's always guess it's
straight just think now you can even be
like hey I've had a pull ahead on a
Ferrari motor valves like half in there
when you swish the spring yeah yeah the
valve is fully seated but we got to
collapse the spring oh it is yeah okay
so it's all the way up and I just
smashed the spring down and putting the
little keepers yep a little keepers here
in let's assembly Lube yep an assembly
Lube okay yeah I don't want to put fresh
valves in here dry yeah we're gonna Lube
them all up that's what she said ooh the
oil that got picked up from the gas
station was not really super agrea
so after rotating the motor 14 times it
started to kind of get a little tight
and we had to keep removing the cam cap
so we're gonna reassemble it with with
this cuz now we're gonna recheck all
four camshafts again just to make sure
yeah might as well yes I did not spend
this much time on this to not get it
what're we do it again no or to have
that happened feel the weight of that
one compared to the weight of this one
yeah that's just a magnet yep that's
cool that works yeah if they're actually
it's four it actually came with the shim
kit so you can pick the shims up out of
the drain with it yeah but obviously the
oil suction between the shim and the
bucket is such that even if yeah yeah if
you can get the oil section between the
bucket and the head to release you just
slide it out okay we pull up the shin
compress the spring with that cool tool
I've got a little T handle on the bottom
so I can just tighten it okay look yeah
I got a little tension on it
so I'll put a little more try to pop it
to get the the seat between the retainer
and the keepers to give up they've been
in there
here we go there it goes yeah they've
been in there a long time so they got a
pretty good plate yeah
there you go sweet no at least and was
run with shell v-power for many years so
you put some assembly Lube on at the
where the valve seats not so much where
it seats more along the stem itself
okay so gliding the guide yes and the
valve stem seal they have a little
rubber seal with a spring on top of the
valve guide underneath the valve spring
assembly and that's what keeps the oil
from running down the valve and into the
camber okay so you want to make sure
this guy has some Lube on it both for
the guide and for that seal you don't
want it damaged either putting the
keepers yep it's kinda like herding cats
they're conical and triangular all at
the same time and then you get the
little tang and so you've got to get it
to drop in to the retainer and around
the valve and you're using a magnet
which wants to stick to the tool into
the valve and to everything else so the
retainer just kind of flops around like
this so you don't have to get to meet up
with the other yeah see I just get it in
there as close as I can they come in
with a gently with a tiny little
screwdriver and kind of nudge it in yeah
coerce it plenty of balance between
getting the spring compressed enough but
not cheap there we go
so oh so slide in uh-huh because if you
do it too much now the raised groove on
the keeper will drop below the machine
groove in the valve so now they're stuck
open on the valve stem and you can't get
it to roll up in so you've got to get it
just right so they want to rest on the
retainer but with the grooves aligned so
that way they kind of just drop into
place and then you release the retainer
so what's nice about this tools even
though I've got the main left lever the
locket I've got
the t-handle down here it's really gonna
fine yeah because these valves are you
know they position a little bit
differently here then the factory ones
did so once I collapse it I actually
have to collapse the spring just a touch
more cuz a valve sits a little bit lower
so I have to put thicker shims in here I
do know that there was some colorful
language the first time you did that
you'd probably simply loop on the lifter
and drop that back in yeah yes since
it's out you know might as well put a
little assembly lube on it before it
goes in that way everything everything
has a good coating on it oh yeah Tim you
got that nice and shiny you are an
expert at scraping guess that you know
yeah since we're not gonna have
catalytic converters anymore there's no
reason to have secondary air injection
basically it's designed to heat up the
cat's faster which since there's no cats
won't really help the idea is we're
gonna run set screws in we'll get a
first light and you can see how small
the port is where the air comes into the
exhaust so you can take a set screw just
run it into the aluminum clean off the
surface yep might as well do that before
we start doing the valve adjustment just
because all these valves are out of the
way only these two are hanging so give
them to clean it all up so it's all nice
and we'll flip it back over lock the
camshaft in and start doing the valve
adjustment cuz these valves definitely
sit differently than the original ones
yeah so I wanted to talk about some real
quick a lot of people are like oh man
you can do this sort of work for like
five or six thousand dollars no you can
do a timing timing belt service for
maybe five or six grand which means
pulling the motor replacing the belts
and maybe the tensioners that's it and
then you know the gaskets that you
needed for that that's it maybe you can
get away with five or six grand but we
also were pulling off the heads pulling
off the oil pan pulling off all sorts of
other stuff this is not including our
screw up in the balance we're doing a
major right like replacing every
component that possibly could fail
including like setting off the
alternator to be rebuilt sanding off the
air conditioner to get reconditioned so
this thing's basically got
a brand-new engine from the heads up
tons of new parts and even one of the
heads is arguably his slaves away
proving my point
that's why I've said this service could
cost between 20 and 25 thousand dollars
if you were to have it done in a shop
the parts alone in this service that
we're doing could be easily over five to
six thousand dollars just in parts the
labor you're talking I usually can do
them in 80 to 100 hours still $100 from
the parking lot on the lift apart back
together off to left test driven in the
parking lot billary
so you're talking hundred hours of labor
in shops charge 120 to $200 an hour
depending on your market yeah no to be
fair amusing worst-case scenario numbers
because well it makes for a better video
and title whoo shiny yeah how your
fingers sort
all right so apparently we did not meet
Josh's requirements for cleanliness so I
got you get you got it not me you you
get this great more I'll stand here and
laugh at you you're like that a
girlfriend wearing all designer clothing
that uses the pronoun we yeah awful lot
yeah we're clean the engine yeah let me
wipe the sweat from your brow ah you did
help missed a spot
we're such as a team effort
if you don't have us rather than you you
and work is hard that's probably true
alright we got the new head gaskets
really use the grape cookie on this - no
no we use some silicone sealer sometimes
I'm head gaskets on early motors because
the casting quality is real poor so you
don't have good surfaces and the layout
on the head studs wasn't real great that
you know there's a lot of a lot of
issues that makes it difficult to seal
up a 50 year old motor these are really
nice these Ellering gaskets are nice the
blocks are nice the heads are nice the
designs nice so there's no need this is
already silicone beading and it's plenty
adequate obviously it's not real hard to
figure out which way it goes yeah
you've got your two cylinder head oil
drains here which go around the second
cylinder so it's easy to figure out but
just in case you want to make sure like
in this case we're doing one cylinder
head and you want to make sure that
you're not Criss crossing yeah it's this
way so the numbers I see there's like
numbers on the other side but even more
it has the middle on the bottom that
mates - oh yeah yeah al - Oh Todd yep
voila it looks nice
sure does the gaskets part number one 5
- 0 - 9 you said yes all right
that's four just that side that's a
different part number for the other side
which we don't know what that is because
we didn't order one yes thankfully just
one head gasket make it that way
yes right
mm there you go first we're going to
wipe down all of the washers and put all
the washers on and then we're gonna
smear moly coat assembly lubricant on
the nuts and thread all the nuts on by
hand and get them all seated and then
we'll pull up the workshop manual page
for the head toward procedure torque
those to a specific torque yeah you can
get a torque wrench in there there is or
is that attached to that tool some
yeah-oh torque wrench on the dogleg tool
okay cool the diagram you know they tell
you if they want to torque wrench to
come off this way yes so a force vector
makes it change the torque right correct
yep so there's a specific orientation
for the torque wrench to the socket than
they want you adhere to yeah very cool
yep Molly coat assembly stuff yeah you
want a little bit on the base of the
flange nut so that way it's lubricated
on the washer we don't have any on the
other side of the washer because you
wanted we want it to actually stick to
the aluminum and not rotate on the
aluminum that rotates on the washer and
of course we've moved on the threads
come on Edward sausage fingers nice
write these in quacks for this section
of videos yeah so we're just kind of
Snug them down yep is there a specific
torque sequence there is specifically
they want to torque wrench at a 90
degree angle to the dogleg socket and
they actually give two cylinder head
torquing procedures depending on how
you're doing it the old-school way is
all you have is a torque wrench and then
you use a dial tool for your torque
angle so they give you a procedure to do
your initial torque at foot-pound
or Newton meters and then you set up
your dial and you rotate it around
alternatively they give a process for
what they call a sensor wrench which is
what I have where it has a gyro built
into it so the torque wrench as soon as
it feels load starts process
torque angle and then at the end of the
angle sweep it's measuring torque load
while measuring angles so at the end of
it when I hit the angle it will show me
the load they give us two procedures one
is the old-school way 60 Newton meters
of initial torque plus 90 degree angle
or with a sensor wrench like I have you
do your initial at 40 degrees which
should come out to no more than 80
Newton meters and then your second pass
will be a hundred and sixty degrees with
no more than 120 Newton meters torque
and this is our yeah this is the order
from the front of the head back so okay
so two three four five six seven eight
nine ten cool the torque angle is pretty
common in the European stuff because
they're less worried about the foot
pounds of torque because you have
friction loss and all of that between
the nut and the stud and the washer and
think so and their opinion it's a little
less accurate what they're worried about
is stretch on the head stud right
because that that's what creates your
clamping load for your gasket by their
calculations moving the nut a certain
number of degrees times thread pitch
mathematically equates to a specific
clamp load on the gasket because the
studs a specific size specific material
specific thread pitch and so they
believe that to be a much more accurate
working process okay yeah cool it's a
big mooshka torque wrench degrees C that
is saying 26.2 Newton meters we're not
quite at we need to get close to 80
right yeah so we gotta do it again
basically what that means is there
wasn't really much seat on it most of
the time like that procedure there they
want you to do a torque load on the
first pass because of the fact that it's
hard to get the tool to read angle
without any load you know it needs that
there goes right 78840 mm-hmm all right
that's first-stage 60 Newton meters all
the way around
great I'm gonna start back here and make
sure that the first couple are still at
60 60 Newton meters because usually as
the gassy right we good to squish the
little uh-huh the first couple cylinders
you did have less torque on them what do
you did yeah quite a bit yeah impressive
so it doesn't say specifically to do
that but the way yeah I understand and
have learned it they want 90 degrees
after 60 new meters of torque I want to
make sure damn sure
depends 90 degrees after 60 damn so you
turn it another 90 degrees that's a lot
yeah see that that one's a little bit
less yep yep much much less there
almost nothing in that yeah nothing on
those so now we'll start back here at
the beginning again a little bit more
yeah I've heard some builders say that
they'll do that first torque pass and
let it sit for a while
no it's squishes again yeah let it
settle and then come back and recheck it
like if this were a race motor you know
that we needed to have everything be
perfect yeah and everything's all strung
out you know and at the absolute limit
so every little bit has to be perfect
because the motor can fail in a matter
of minutes and hours what we're doing
that would be adequate there all right
so basically it lets you know once
you've pushed it 90 degrees it's 48
87 1990 it's in the 75 Newton meters and
so that's it you really increase that
much no not a whole lot and that's good
because in the manual that says if you
have to do any reach X you want to make
sure you have a minimum of I believe it
was 70 Newton meters so 75 is good hmm
this is why they prefer angle over
torque yeah because you see went 90
degrees on both of these one read 75 new
meters and the other just read 90 Newton
meters the differentiation in torque
doesn't great warping no because what
we're talking about is when you're
measuring torque in foot-pounds the
resistance of the nut turning creates
force against this what you're measuring
is how much force it takes to rotate the
nut but you have slanting force right so
you're measuring yeah so the resistance
between the threads and the seat of the
nut can increase the reading you know
what I mean it's like if you don't put
grease on it you'll hit 90 Newton meters
really soon because of the frictional
loss so they're not rotating so this is
why they liked the angle instead of just
the think about it your if you twist it
90 degrees that means the nuts turned so
far and they know the computational
length that actually is pulling on the
stud right so all the rest of them were
in the high 90s to 105 Newton meters
only that first one came out at 75
Newton meters so that's good so now the
manual said we'll double-check the
manual and see what it said the minimum
was all right so just double checking
that each of them has at least 70 Newton
meters correct
as her workshop manual for the mean yes
yep looking good googy we somebody
Danube it'll last a little longer while
we're spinning things manually yeah I
wasn't expecting it to take that much
time two rotations to get everything
that works so when you did the other
ones then I would probably will probably
pop all the caps off and put loop on
them again just to be safe I mean we
don't have to do all four cams again
hopefully but at least gonna check them
did you know work on engines some
rudimentary shit nothing Oh
Josh's scale pushrod this right is there
yeah put that's all my experiences push
out engines yeah I'd say I've only done
push shreds I've taken like fully taking
apart down to the block yeah all right
so reliant to approximately TDC since
everything else is at TDC what's to stop
dead to the top dead center basically
this is when the we're saying that the
number one piston is all the way up
which is zero degrees on the wheel if
you see there's little tiny marks see
there's a mark here and then a mark on
the cam uh-huh and when those two a line
it's approximately top dead center but
then we have to use the measurements to
make sure that they're actually cut to
finish all right we're back to the joys
of cam timing this time without mistakes
hopefully retention the belt then we got
to check the valve lash again since we
put in new valves they're actually
tighten the tensioner at maximum
deflection maximum tightness 10/10 yeah
so to measure the gap ya got measure the
10 9 the gap between the lifter and the
cam it should be within a certain range
in traction as the engine gets hot and
all of that so you got to leave some
clearance between the lifter and the
very base of the camshaft so it can all
grow pushing as few other things about
it as well and it also it also can
affect the camshaft timing
you're the master will you do miss
I think some people would disagree after
watching this video where we've been in
take now sure I can get an 11 in there
but it's tight so ten and a half yeah
front and the back ones eight so we're
doing valve adjustments while the valves
are while the cams are in yep only three
out of the eight valves need an
adjustment these first two in this one
here so okay the machine work on the
valves is pretty on point yeah that was
pretty good and even these are only four
big so it's still really good yes still
not that bad so this is a hill
engineering tool available from her can
be part number is nine five six zero for
this guy comes as a kit so I call it the
spoon and claw so the way this is the
factory procedure for doing a valve
adjustment you know in a case where
you're not pulling the camshaft so take
this guy in here we're currently if you
notice there's a knotch
machined oh yeah into the spoon okay so
that will kind of tell you how far to go
so you take that oh my god oh you can
just depress the valve and then already
depressed the valve so the valve is open
now this is on the edge of the bucket
holding the valve open and now we have
enough clearance to pop the shim no
kidding you lose an eye
normal part of the process now say yeah
they probably don't stick y'all that
well yeah not always how do we know the
Pistons not up top the tool is designed
so that way you can't open it enough oh
okay couldn't actually touch the piston
first replace the three 93.9 with a 4.0
shim which should give us the four
thousandths we're looking for by the way
yes this video is sponsored by Ricambi
America comm visitor ricambiamerica.com
use the code NGS ten you get 10% off
your entire order cuz they're awesome
look at all your OEM parts the good
stuff good customer service and you get
free cookies I've gotten free chocolate
too yeah I've had Oreos Nutter butters
Nutter butters oh yeah good this is
called intermission we have a break from
the 348 to fix Hanks 430 this part is
broken this is part number 201 nine five
seven that's the switch that activates
under the brake pedal does the
taillights and the computer to let the
computer know the brakes are being
pushed so obviously when that switch is
going bad you can't even start the car
because you can't push the brake
seasonally working was able to get in
that would have been 2 degrees the
static reading is 2026 10,000th yeah so
we're going to 30 thousandths there's
10,000 s clearance we need 40,000 so 40
minus 10 is 30 I spun around until we
got 30,000 deflection on the lifter
which was at 2 degrees found the other
half it was at 49 degrees so we did the
math so u2 plus 49 plus one-eighth get
that number divided by 2 subtract the 2
degrees and we got 1 13.5 and we need
109 so we're off by 4 degrees which
might be perfect so we just need to move
it one whole pull the pin and try and
get it only one position real sweet
what's that from 90 we got ten twenty
thirty forty five six yes four point
five plus twenty plus forty six divided
by two minus four point five one ten
point seven five one oh nine and a half
and half set puts us with one degree one
degree too much but we were head in the
right direction we can screw up that
time nope and you see what I mean
advance reduces the center line yes all
right so we want one oh nine and a half
right one oh ten and a half we think
it's pretty much good it's within one
degree we're gonna leave it for now
we're gonna check the other all the
other cams because of how much we've
been messing around or making sure that
all those computations were done
correctly and we're all good and we
timed the other three cans and then drop
the belt pulled a cylinder head put a
new head gasket on yeah we've done a lot
of disassembly since the timing it was
set so it'll be interesting to see
hopefully upstate how it all reach times
release close I really hope that's
stayed I don't want to redo it all no
please god no
I'm with you all right so we got 108 and
we need 112 advanced by four degrees all
right so we gotta move the pin hopefully
one hole so we are hosed the ability to
move that cam gear because we're out of
positions available so we had to lock it
down again so we lock down the cam using
the the card trick we're removing the
tension off the tensioner now we got to
pull off the wheel
now I just moved the cam gear around so
the pin just dropped in the center all
right my sweep of my range of motion
away or the cam yeah like 16 degrees
each direction we can adjust it 12 yeah
12 yeah we can go 12 degrees either
direction so now is go forward 1 go
forward 1 and then unlock the to unlock
the camp do we want to put we want to
put the tension on the belt first right
yep I it doesn't matter right now okay
because everything's locked so that
would be to 245 646 oh shit oh yeah
jackpot 112 jackpot
dead call that bitch done that was good
so how close were we on the intake on
this side it was a 1 10 5
it's only 1 degree advance to spine
pretty damn good
whew having super expensive really nice
working good shit instead of chickeny
China the Chinese chicken right
who knows what ramp it's thinking shit
makes a huge difference because we're
trying to get I mean we had that set
within a thousandth of an inch of
accuracy on both opening and closing but
so far that was the fastest easiest most
accurate cam we've timed thank God
we earned it well yeah we deserve we
deserve to win we needed a win we've
concluded we need to put some more Lube
on the cams because they're kind of
getting jumpy we've been farting around
this thing too much we're gonna pull off
the bearing caps and renewed put in the
lube Tim okay so we got new Lube we're
gonna reset the tensioner by how much
hold on right there's 26 oh that's right
perfect I think that's 54 54 and that
would be 10 do that's right that's
perfect that's an actually boom 100%
spot on sweetness balls that's some
gloriousness right there yep so I'm good
with that one yeah yeah don't touch it
about that that's badass that's two wins
two wins in a row we're on a roll not
gonna wood all right no Emmys
1:10 okay that's one half a degree
yeah and the other one was that one ten
five good enough that's no that's
actually imperfect because we want it to
be 109 five half a degree is our belt
stretch the other one is 112 half d112
five would have been beautiful but we're
not going to find a half a degree so
we're gonna bop on oh my god yes yes yes
supposed to go yeah yeah there you go
yeah just black like like done yeah
that's how cam timing supposed to go
whatever it was happened last weekend
that's not how it kind cam times get you
a hot rod I can't wait to hear it
yes it's gonna be so sweet oh my god
alright we're gonna stop here while on a
high because we haven't had a win in a
little while so everything looks really
really good everything's within one
degree of perfect that's very good
that's well within the margin of error
we're happy and I'm happy our intake cam
assembly marks are dead-on and our
exhaust cam assembly marks our hair
advanced and that tells me that it is
visually from
Smart's yeah yeah that's pretty accurate
Williams up yep just the tiniest tiny
fit see the marks there marks there so
pretty damn good oh yeah alright guys
that's gonna do it for today again this
video is sponsored by ricmabiamerica.com
go visit our website ricambiamerica.com
use the code NGS 10 get 10% off
your entire order holy crap we're gonna
have a badass 348 pretty soon so now we
just gotta start buttoning it up putting
crap back on it and then we throw it
back in the car we got a surprise for
you go we haven't really talked about it
but you got surprise you're gonna like
this you're gonna stay tuned so trust me
on this one all right we'll see you guys
it's gonna be sweet